My Custom Funko Step-by-Step Guide

Hi, S.E. Doster of Geeky Acrylics here! I’ve created a step-by-step reference guide to get you from start to finish with my DIY Funko “How to” videos. I briefly discuss each step below, but you can click each one to get a more detailed explanation and visual from my YouTube video guides. My methods aren’t the only methods, but this is the best process i’ve found through trial and error.

 

STEP ONE: Always clean your pop first.

Even though Funko Pops look clean to the eye, they can have a bit of oil or grime from the factory. Just wipe down the Funko with warm, soapy water. The video also discusses optional steps like removing the original paint job or scuffing up the Funko before sculpting.

STEP TWO: Remove the head.

For most custom projects, especially involving sculpting with polymer clay, you’ll want to remove the head first. There’s more than one way to remove the head, but for me personally, I just use an old hairdryer.

Disclaimer: The vinyl will heat up pretty quick, so please be careful not to burn your hands. The Funko will get hot to touch, but I’ve never actually burned myself. Just use caution. Most of the time the heat from the hairdryer will be enough loosen the glue from the flat disc “collar” piece that connects the head to the body. Sometimes it is more stubborn and I need to use a little extra muscle to pull it apart, or use an X-Acto knife to separate a piece. Disclaimer: Kids, get help from an adult before using sharp blades. Clumsy adults, get help from better adults, ha! X-Acto knifes are very sharp, and it’s super easy to slip up and cut yourself.

STEP THREE: Modifying a Pop or adding details with polymer clay.

This is my polymer clay 101 video that discusses everything about getting started with polymer clay. This is not the only clay type that can be used, but it is my personal choice for custom Funkos. Some use air-dry clays, two part-epoxy clay, and such. I only use polymer clay because it does NOT air dry. I can work on a sculpt off and on for a week or more with no fear of the clay drying up. However, it does require baking in an oven to cure the clay, and not everyone will find that to be convenient for them.

If you properly follow the instructions on the box, the brand of polymer clay I use is perfectly safe to bake with the Funko in the oven. No, it will not melt the Funko.

There are other brands with similar bake times and temperatures, but they’re not always the same. Please always read the instructions. Some sculptors prefer Fimo for colored clay options. I don’t bother with colors because I’m going to paint the Funko.

*I use Super Sculpey Original polymer clay: https://amzn.to/2CM9LMd

You don’t have to invest a ton of money in tools as a beginner. I bought a really cheap set that had the basics, and those tools lasted me at least two years.

*Here’s a set similar to mine: https://amzn.to/2NVnhTO

*Blank DIY Funko Pop male: https://amzn.to/2CLTIhp

*Blank DIY Funko female: https://amzn.to/37lU5gK

 STEP FOUR: Baking.

If you’ve used polymer clay, you’ll need to properly bake your sculpted Funko. My video will give you some tips before jumping in. Always stick to the baking instructions given for each brand of clay. Never go over the temperature given.

 STEP FIVE: Pre-paint prep work.

Don’t immediately handle your baked Funko! The polymer clay isn’t fully cured until cool, so it will still be a little soft and somewhat fragile. I usually bake my Funkos in the evening, and then let them cool overnight. The next day I’ll start my prep work, which is to wet sand, prime, and wet sand again.

 STEP SIX: Painting

You can use any type of acrylic paints to add a nice paint job to your custom Funko. Some people just use cheap bottles of craft paint, which should be totally fine, but I just use the Liquitex and Artist Loft acrylic paints I have on hand for my canvas art.

Paintbrushes don’t need to be expensive, but soft synthetic brushes work best to avoid brush strokes. Remember less is more. Apply thin coats of paint and take your time.

*I use Liquitex Basics: https://amzn.to/32XZSFI

*Artist Loft acrylics: https://amzn.to/2qlUHCi

*Artist Loft brushes: https://amzn.to/2OkJCt1

 STEP SEVEN: Apply a protective coat.

After your Funko has had a few days to dry, you’ll want to apply something to protect your hard work. Some artists use a spray on clear coat to protect their Funko creations. However, I’m not a fan of spray on applications. Just like the priming step, I prefer to brush on the clear coat application to get a nice even coat. I always use polycrylic, which is essentially made for floors, but is widely used by artists for protecting polymer clay pieces. Usually two thin coats is enough, but make sure to give plenty of time between coats for drying.

*Minwax Polycrylic Gloss Finish (Must be Water Based not oil): https://amzn.to/2r4k0sI

If you find this guide helpful and create your own Funkos, I’d love to see them! Tag me on Twitter @sedoster or Instagram @geeky_acrylics.

 

*Disclaimer: I am an Amazon Affiliate. Clicking the product links could potentially earn me small revenue, which can help support and grow my Geeky Acrylics brand. I’m not sponsored or paid for in any way by the brands I’ve mentioned here. These are strictly brands and specific products that I personally enjoy using and see great results with.